Jeju and the sea

Jeju island is about 90km off the southern tip of Korea.  It’s volcanic – not with any live volcano’s sadly, but it’s covered with craters, lakes and waterfalls.  It’s very beautiful, has more electric cars than the rest of the entire country and they are planning to be carbon free by 2020. 

I have been here a couple of times before but the first time; fifteen years ago was an eye opener to the seedier side of life here.  I had been working on an anti counterfeiting investigation that led to a Korean national living in the Philippines.  It transpired that he had substantial business interests on Jeju.  There’s a lot of casinos here and along with casinos, there tends to be organised crime.  

That fine gentlemen turned out to not only be (allegedly) involved with counterfeiting and smuggling of duty free, but also the (alleged) smuggling of people.  There had been a steady stream of transvestite performers and singers shipped out of the Philippines and onto the cabaret circuit and some of them had never returned home.  However, that’s a story for another day. My current task wasn’t any easier emotionally, but it was on a much smaller scale and so I had the time to get some exercise and check out the city in the daylight. The first time here, I hadn’t seen much daylight.

During my morning drag (no pun intended) around the waterfront contemplating life, I noticed that they were going to some serious trouble to protect the coastline.  There were large barges unloading huge concrete tetropods and then stacking them in intricate patterns along the sea wall.   

I watched the floating cranes placing the alien looking shapes on piles of large rocks in the harbour.  The result was actually quite beautiful and it provides a kind of artificial reef for the fish and other sea life.  This kind of coastal protection is ubiquitous in some locations, such as the Japanese prefecture of Okinawa where there are so many,  it’s actually hard to find a stretch of unaltered coastline near the cities.  I found that the fishing boats were moored just around the bend of the harbour, having returned from sea in the early hours of the morning.  Very practically, the nets have floating lights attached to their booms in order to attract the fish but, also to make it easier to find and retrieve the catch. It’s just as well because at night, there’s almost an unbroken line of fishing boats across the horizon.


Jeju’s capitol is quite small actually; it’s more like a big town and you can tell that the place revolves around the sea.  The fishing boats are close to restaurants with strange looking sea creatures in glass tanks all along the seafront.  The side streets around the harbour are full of stalls, where seafood is sold almost off the back of the boats.

Calamari anyone? – fresh out this morning

Glancing out to sea again, I was a bit alarmed when I saw bobbing heads moving close to the barges, thinking at first that they might be seals stealing crab pots, as they were close to small buoys.  As I looked closer, they weren’t seals, they were skin divers who were perilously close to the boats.  They do wear flourescent vests, but clearly OH&S rules in Korea aren’t that stringent…

Aside from the fishing that is done from boats, there’s a traditional method of gathering produce from the sea by hand.  It’s done by the Haenyo divers. They are all ladies, most of them in their 80’s and they go out everyday with no specialist equipment – just wet suits, fins and masks.  

They are seriously impressive free divers and I tried counting the seconds when they duck dived under the surface.  Minutes seemed to go by before they popped up with armfuls of seaweed, oysters, abalone and clams.  In order to get their swag to shore, they drag a floating basket behind them on a length of rope suitable for the depth they will be diving to.  The other end is tied around their waist, where they also carry a small knife.

Haenyo Free divers (an official photo)

These tough ladies have known each other since they were very young, most are related in some way and you can hear them bickering like kids at each other.  The day after spotting them in the water, I went out early to see if I could catch them before they started work.  I found the steps they were using and hung around to watch them go into the water. They noticed my white legs in my shorts and on what was a fairly brisk morning, one clearly made a ribald comment, to which the others laughed uproariously.  Another, who was probably the trouble maker in the group indicated to me that I might like to join them in the water but all I could think of was the ‘not so nice’ mermaids in Peter Pan so I shook my head and bowed politely – much to their delight.

Granny the diver sorts out her lines


The Haenyo divers are so famous that they even have a ‘little mermaid’ style statue on the waterfront.

Later that day and once my work was done, I needed to clear my head so I headed out along the seafront again to find dinner.  Obviously, it was going to be seafood of some sort, but I wasn’t sure what.  I didn’t really care as I knew it would be fresh and fresh seafood with cold beer can’t really be beaten.  I was waved into one of the restaurants and essentially told what I was having.  I had some wonderfully oily mackerel fresh out of the tank and onto the bbq.   

And that was just for starters

I like Korea, the food and its people. And their beer,  I really love their beer.

J.

Armistice day

The eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month holds special meaning for many.  It’s also when barely known, if at all, but never forgotten relations and total strangers who gave their lives for freedom are commemorated.  Commemorated, not celebrated, because who could celebrate something like 67, 000, 000 people worldwide dying in the first and second world wars alone? You can somehow celebrate the bravery of those who fought and died to protect their Country and their mates, but how can you do anything other than mourn the tens of millions of non combatants who ceased to exist as a result of war?

The word ‘armistice’ comes from the latin word ‘arma’ meaning ‘arms’ and ‘statism’ meaning ‘a stopping’  At this time of every year there are services and parades that help people born almost three generations since the cessation of hostilities of world war two remember that sacrifice.  This is an account of my family, my wife’s family and others experience of conflict close to where I grew up.  There wouldn’t be a family in the UK without a similar story.  

As a child in England, I remember the parades in the village I grew up in through my years spent as a cub, scout and sea scout, where we marched proudly to the music played by the boys brigade band, we fidgeted through the last post being played at the local memorial and we flicked boiled sweets at each other during the following church service.

I bought into the whole Baden Powell legend of how scouts were used during conflicts to perform reconnaissance against the enemy in order to gain a military advantage.  As a boy, I day dreamed during the countless hours I spent crawling through the predawn damp, misty woodland with my air rifle hunting rabbits that I was actually a soldier, sneaking up on an enemy who was about to attack my unit.  By means of several well placed shots and a last minute berserker bayonet charge into the middle of them, I had defeated the enemy, survived the winning of the Victoria cross and had been sent back to Blighty to convalesce from several nasty looking, but non disabling wounds to the admiring glances of the young ladies in the village.  I think the rabbits died laughing at me…

In the first world war, a young local man whose family had lived in the English village I grew up in had been killed in an artillery barrage whilst serving in France.  His bereft parents had created a memorial park in his name so that he would never be forgotten.  His name was Lieutenant William Lisle Rockley MC

William Rockley died when he was 21

William Rockley is commemorated beautifully in a peaceful location near the river that couldn’t be more different from the place where he ceased to physically exist, but he lives on in the memories of his family and villagers like me.

In Mrs Jerry’s family, her paternal grandfather Sidney was too old for military service in the second world war, but he served his country as an air raid warden and rode motorcycles throughout the blitz in order to lead ambulances through the bombed out streets.  He was also an accomplished Jazz musician but tragically, he was killed when he was knocked off his bike by a drunk driver, leaving a widow and orphaned children.

Sidney’s widow Kate met a gentle man named Louis at the British Legion and she married him.  Louis eventually became our village lollipop man (a crossing guard for the children coming home from school) and when he told Kate that he’d been a “conchie” or Conscientious Objector during the war, she thought that he was very brave and his name was the last one on her lips as she died.  I don’t know his story, or what happened to him as a result of his beliefs and I wish I did, but it wouldn’t have been good as many CO’s had a very hard time of it in military prison.  Others served very bravely as stretcher bearers and medics.

Mrs Jerry’s maternal grandfather Stanley, was married to Mabel and he was classified as unfit to serve as a result of childhood TB.  He drove trucks up and down the country delivering food and other essentials.  When Nottingham was bombed, the house next door was destroyed, with the family inside.

Mrs Jerry’s late father Peter, had spent the blitz in an air raid shelter and he did his national service in the RAF Regiment. It was the end of the war and he’d won a round the world trip as a bodyguard to an Air Marshall for being the best recruit.  His experiences in Singapore, where there were still a few lost souls from the recently liberated Changi Prison,  never left him.  He was a very special man and I miss him.

Thats Peter, just left of centre in the front row.

In my own family, my paternal grandfather Charles was part of the non combatant ‘land army’ of workers who fed the country and provided the means to fuel the desperate fighting not that far away to the east.  As I got older, I learned that he was probably what would have been unkindly called a ‘spiv’ during the war. He was certainly a farm worker and later a trader of necessities but not necessarily of luxury items.

My Grandfather Charles, selling his wares

My grandmother Violet and their young family no doubt suffered every bit as badly from the deprivations following WWII, but I did sense his regret whenever the subject of the war came up in conversation; as if he was embarrassed by not having medals to wear on Englands most special days.  That generation was never openly affectionate to each other in public and for me, he wasn’t easy to know; nor was he an obviously warm individual, but I did get the impression that he was at least fond of me in his own way.  Grandfather Charles attended the remembrance services but being a teetotaller, he avoided the groups of old soldiers who frequented the Royal British Legion bar afterwards.  Perhaps part of the reason for that avoidance was survivors guilt?

Many years after the Falklands war (which I missed as I was just a bit too young and was in the process of joining up), I attended a reunion of my old Royal Marine Commando unit.  Most of those attending the reunion had bravely served in that conflict and there really was a special bond between them.  All of them, in their teens and early twenties at the time had sailed away, not knowing if they would return or in what state they would be in if they did.  The organiser of the reunion read out King Henry the V’s speech (as written by Shakespeare ) before the dinner.  That speech encapsulates the inferred shame and guilt perfectly.

“Be in their flowing cups freshly remember’d.

This story shall the good man teach his son; 

And Crispin Crispian shall ne’er go by, 

From this day to the ending of the world, 

But we in it shall be remember’d; 

We few, we happy few, we band of brothers; 

For he to-day that sheds his blood with me 

Shall be my brother; be he ne’er so vile, 

This day shall gentle his condition: 

And gentlemen in England now a-bed 

Shall think themselves accursed they were not here, 

And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks 

That fought with us upon Saint Crispin’s day”


Although I eventually did see active service with them, it was hard to not feel shame that I hadn’t been there with them on their St Crispin’s day.

My maternal grandfather Ernest or Ernie, did fight.  He had a chestful of medals and who never walked past an open pub door when he could enter, was the total opposite.  His war was initially fought in Italy, Africa and Palestine with our local regiment; the Sherwood Foresters, and in later years with anyone who hadn’t served in uniform or who got in the way of his drinking.

Ernie’s ‘St Crispin’s day’ was at the battle of Anzio in Italy.  He told me a few stories over the years with tears in his eyes when he was ‘in his cups’ but the story I remember most was when told me that he was too proud to ask for compassionate leave when his first wife, my grandmother, died and instead he went AWOL for the funeral.  This resulted in him being busted back to private from acting sergeant.

Dressed for the desert campaign

I was once given an old car of his, an Austin Allegro, which had done less than 1000 miles in all the years that he owned it. The Allegro was certainly one of the ugliest cars ever to have been built outside of the soviet union and it even had a square steering wheel, but it was in pristine condition at the front, on the drivers side and at the rear. The nearside was a mass of scrapes and dents gained during his daily obstacle course back from the pub.  I’m afraid that I inherited his affection for the bottle and his parlous mental state, but luckily not his habit of drunken driving.

The Austin Allegro – described as one of the worst cars of all time.  But it was free…

When I was serving, my grandfather liked to talk about me to his mates at the pub and often said that we were the only ones in the family who “were keeping the war going” At the time, I was very flattered, but as I matured I became aware that he wasn’t the nicest of men to those closest to him and I only saw him on the rare occasions that I wasn’t overseas and on leave when both of us were usually hell bent on our next drink. When I left the service, he hardly ever spoke to me again.  There was that inferred shame that I had left the ‘family business’.

I often wondered what a one to one meeting between my grandfathers would have been like. One, in the others eye’s, a teetotal ‘Arthur Daley’ like character, metaphorically (as he was quite short) looking down his nose and the other, a drunken bully swaying slightly as he knowingly asked of the other where he had served in the war. Conflict, pride, guilt and alcohol can make arseholes of decent men.  

Right now, I’m sitting in Singapore at two minutes to eleven writing this and I’m feeling quite emotional.  There are so many men who never made it to my age and got to live, love, marry and have children.  I did and I’m a lucky man.